Here's the public link.
And here's a taste:
(NB: If we're friends on facebook, you'll be able to see the comments and tags by getting to the album through my personal page.)
Sunday, 28 August 2011
Tuesday, 23 August 2011
The good, the bad, and Misha
Kristen,
I apologize for all the heavy, reflective claptrap of the last two entries. Let's have some fun, yes?
First, a list of things about Georgia I find baffling:
I apologize for all the heavy, reflective claptrap of the last two entries. Let's have some fun, yes?
First, a list of things about Georgia I find baffling:
- Although Georgians are far from the worst drivers I've seen, they still have some habits that make Western passengers blanch. They drive fast, sure, and don't stop for pedestrians, whatever. But they also change lanes like madmen and often drive on dividing lines when they have room to do so. Georgians aren't much for lining up on or off the road, and this manifests itself in drivers following the lane lines between two other cars - because hey, there's room, so why not use that space to pass?
- I understand and accept that I look very not Georgian, but it's still difficult to get used to being stared at. My assistant/class translator says that people in Tbilisi have grown accustomed to foreigners so it's not such a big deal to them anymore. Yet whenever I go out I feel like I have an arse for a face.
- The food is very good... but very salty. There's some kind of special Georgian salt (more of a browny-green colour than table salt, and a larger grain) that is very intense and savoury. I don't care for it... and may come home with the blood pressure of a 50-year-old man.
- Being on time is a foreign concept (although that is changing). I haven't gotten used to this, and so am my usual punctual self - which results in a lot of waiting. I don't do well with tardiness or with waiting. More ways I need to relax, and adapt!
- They call pop "limonati", even if it's not lemon-flavoured. (I'd say, on the absurdity scale, this is on par with those Southern U.S. states that call everything fizzy "coke").
Things I love about Georgia:
- I've mentioned this before, but the hospitality and care of friends and strangers blows me away. They will literally give you the shirt off their back. There's no stranger danger here - they are living embodiments of the aphorism, "A stranger is just a friend you haven't met". I'm so grateful for this every day (and not just because I usually have no idea what I'm doing).
- The escalators in the Tbilisi metro go really, really fast (I suspect because the stations are really, really deep). Also, the subway car doors open before the train comes to a complete stop. This is especially refreshing when compared to the D.C. metro, which has a pause of approximately a millennia between the train stopping and the door opening. The Tbilisi metro is also more reliable than the D.C. metro, even though it hasn't appeared to have been updated since the Soviets built it in the 1960s. I hate the D.C. metro.
- The water is fantastic. I live in a crumbling old Soviet apartment but can simply open the tap, fill a glass, and drink heartily. It doesn't taste weird and it hasn't affected my digestive system. Georgian spring water is bottled and sold in the region, so if you're in the neighbourhood I recommend it!
- You can see the country developing before your eyes. Alongside evidence of 70 years of Soviet rule, a devastating civil war, a revolution, and a recent spanking by Russia, there are modern buildings, public art, revamped institutions, happy people, new investment, rampant enthusiasm for life, and an increasingly loud civil society. The entire country seems to be trying its hardest to modernize and globalize - and wants the world world to notice. It's an incredible atmosphere to live in.
- More than one Georgian has told me about the dramatic change in the police force. After the 2003 revolution, the new government fired the entire police force, changed its culture and mandate, brought on foreign consultants, and radically altered the public perception of its officers. Where once policemen and women were not to be trusted, victimizing innocent civilians through "fines" (forced bribes) and in bed with criminals, patrol officers are now the second most trusted figures in Georgia (second only to the patriarch, the head of the Georgian Orthodox Church). Georgian children want to grow up to be police officers, and Georgians themselves no longer fear calling the police if they need help. It's heartening, and admirable.
- The fact that I've found myself getting a little protective and emotional over the country and its people. The South Ossetian War was a mere three years ago, and thinking about the people I know being put in harm's way, being afraid, evacuating, hearing rumors of an invasion of Tbilisi... it upsets me. It upset me too, in a very surprising way, to discover that one of my favourite students used to be in the Soviet army. The thought of him being the "enemy" during the Cold War, of men like him potentially being at the forefront of another world war... I don't know if there's a word for the feelings it brought up in me. Maybe there isn't one in English - is there a word for fearing something that could have happened, but didn't, while simultaneously understanding the smallness of the world and the oneness of humanity?
Ack, sorry, I promised fun, not deep thoughts. Here's one last thing that absolutely delights me:
This is Mikheil "Misha" Saakashvili, current President of Georgia and leader of the 2003 revolution. He's a very theatrical figure, and there are a stack of amusing anecdotes about his antics. (There are also a stack of not-so-amusing criticisms of his abuse of government power in the name of the revolution, and hypocrisy when it comes to current Georgian opposition protests. But I digress.)
Anyway, this video is of a press conference he held in October, to promote the seaside city of Batumi as an alternative to other Black Sea resorts. He had just completed a 3.5km swim in the sea (alongside the mayor of Tbilisi and an old man in a woman's bathing cap), and so popped out of the water clad only in his bathing suit (to compete with Putin, one imagines), whipped out an iPad, and started comparing the weather of rival resorts to that of Batumi, emphasizing that the humidity is lower there and that in Georgia you can swim from May to November, and even head into the mountains later that same day for some skiing.
He did all this while heroically sucking it in. What a boss.
Saturday, 20 August 2011
Wait, no, I mean Tbilisi
Hoo boy, Kristen. We have a lot to talk about.
As you read in my previous post, I was on the verge of moving to Telavi, meeting my host family, and then enjoying a month-long vacation. As of Wednesday night, that plan has been seriously altered.
On Wednesday, I was still at the orientation hotel. News came through that "one boy and one girl" were needed for month-long assignments teaching police officers, one in Tbilisi (me) and the other in the mountains near the Russian border. I volunteered immediately, not merely because I thought it would be fascinating, but because I'd originally been interested in teaching adults. Plus, as much as a month's "vacation" sounded nice, I did come to Georgia to work, and to contribute.
So on Thursday morning instead of being picked up by my host family, I was picked up by the police and taken to the new police academy compound in the west end of the city. There I was given a brief introduction to my new responsibilities, met my fantastic new American roommate, and shipped off the Soviet-style apartment we'll be sharing. My plans for Friday were to shadow her classes and prepare myself for my first day of work on Monday.
But at 8 o'clock on Thursday night I received a call asking if I could start Friday. I had no teaching experience, no books, and no clue. But I said yes, because that's what you have to do in Georgia - go with the flow, take opportunities as they come, and trust that the people around you will help you through. So yesterday I was taken to the Ministry of Internal Affairs, where I taught four classes of three different ability levels. And I survived.
"Survived" is an entirely appropriate word in this context. Let me put this in perspective: When I woke up Friday morning I didn't know my address, my roommate's phone number, where I was working, who was driving me there, who my colleagues were, what I was teaching, how many classes I was teaching, to whom I would be teaching them, how I would get lunch, when my day started or ended, or even how I would get home. I'm a planner, an organizer; I'm a over-prepared Boy Scout. To be in the dark, to be out of control, to have to rely entirely on other people and to be OK with asking for help - this is so far outside my experience it might as well describe another person's life. But you know what? Everything turned out fine. I performed my duties well, I enjoyed myself, I made new friends, numerous people went out of their way to help me, and I didn't cry. Temporarily losing independence and control didn't cause me to self-destruct.
I have four more months of this fundamental challenge to my personality, including another upheaval in mid-September when I move to Telavi. But I'm proud of my (mostly) calm reaction to Friday, and I'm sure that I'll only grow more confident in my situation and my abilities. (I say mostly calm because I may have ended every sentence yesterday with "?!?" and a squeak).
That said, when I get back to North America, I'll probably double-down on being a control freak just to make up for letting go in Georgia. If any of you are late to a movie, so help me god...
As you read in my previous post, I was on the verge of moving to Telavi, meeting my host family, and then enjoying a month-long vacation. As of Wednesday night, that plan has been seriously altered.
On Wednesday, I was still at the orientation hotel. News came through that "one boy and one girl" were needed for month-long assignments teaching police officers, one in Tbilisi (me) and the other in the mountains near the Russian border. I volunteered immediately, not merely because I thought it would be fascinating, but because I'd originally been interested in teaching adults. Plus, as much as a month's "vacation" sounded nice, I did come to Georgia to work, and to contribute.
So on Thursday morning instead of being picked up by my host family, I was picked up by the police and taken to the new police academy compound in the west end of the city. There I was given a brief introduction to my new responsibilities, met my fantastic new American roommate, and shipped off the Soviet-style apartment we'll be sharing. My plans for Friday were to shadow her classes and prepare myself for my first day of work on Monday.
But at 8 o'clock on Thursday night I received a call asking if I could start Friday. I had no teaching experience, no books, and no clue. But I said yes, because that's what you have to do in Georgia - go with the flow, take opportunities as they come, and trust that the people around you will help you through. So yesterday I was taken to the Ministry of Internal Affairs, where I taught four classes of three different ability levels. And I survived.
"Survived" is an entirely appropriate word in this context. Let me put this in perspective: When I woke up Friday morning I didn't know my address, my roommate's phone number, where I was working, who was driving me there, who my colleagues were, what I was teaching, how many classes I was teaching, to whom I would be teaching them, how I would get lunch, when my day started or ended, or even how I would get home. I'm a planner, an organizer; I'm a over-prepared Boy Scout. To be in the dark, to be out of control, to have to rely entirely on other people and to be OK with asking for help - this is so far outside my experience it might as well describe another person's life. But you know what? Everything turned out fine. I performed my duties well, I enjoyed myself, I made new friends, numerous people went out of their way to help me, and I didn't cry. Temporarily losing independence and control didn't cause me to self-destruct.
I have four more months of this fundamental challenge to my personality, including another upheaval in mid-September when I move to Telavi. But I'm proud of my (mostly) calm reaction to Friday, and I'm sure that I'll only grow more confident in my situation and my abilities. (I say mostly calm because I may have ended every sentence yesterday with "?!?" and a squeak).
That said, when I get back to North America, I'll probably double-down on being a control freak just to make up for letting go in Georgia. If any of you are late to a movie, so help me god...
Tuesday, 16 August 2011
Telavi
Kristen,
This evening, I finally received my placement. In two days I will be moving to a small city in the eastern half of Georgia - Telavi, in the Kakheti region.
From what I understand, Telavi is notable for two reasons: first, it's located on a plateau, next to a green and subtropical valley, at the base of the Caucasus mountains. It's supposed to be a stunningly scenic place, and consequently has a healthy tourist industry.
Second, it's in a major wine-making region of Georgia, and the wine produced here is supposed to be spectacular. I've also been told that I'll be arriving during harvest season, so I may be able to observe (or participate!) in the wine-making.
But this evening has marked more than just the discovery of my new address. Everything's becoming so real now. Before my departure, I was never really able to wrap my head around the fact that I was moving to Georgia. I only began to feel something while on the plane last week. It hit me that I was perhaps making a mistake, getting out of my depth, and doing something that was truly crazy. I saw gates displaying flights to London and New York, and I considered bolting for those much safer international relocations. Since arriving in Georgia, though, I haven't had those feelings again, even as I've found myself reduced to near-illiteracy in a radically different geography and mystifying culture. I've had the cocoon of the hotel, of my English-speaking orientation group, and of the protective program co-ordinators to make me forget exactly how far away from my own culture, my own context, my own life I am.
That changed this evening. My new home has a name (and, if Wikipedia is to be believed, a beautiful face). I have one day of training - including one day of life-saving Georgian language lessons - left until I meet my host family and are whisked away to an even more remote and unfamiliar part of the world. Until now, I couldn't wrap my head around the idea that my presence in Georgia wasn't temporary - but I am not going home anytime soon. Everything familiar to me is packed in a hockey bag, and anything I miss will have to wait until Christmas. This week of orientation was merely dipping my toes in the water; my real endeavour is only about to begin.
This evening, I finally received my placement. In two days I will be moving to a small city in the eastern half of Georgia - Telavi, in the Kakheti region.
From what I understand, Telavi is notable for two reasons: first, it's located on a plateau, next to a green and subtropical valley, at the base of the Caucasus mountains. It's supposed to be a stunningly scenic place, and consequently has a healthy tourist industry.
Second, it's in a major wine-making region of Georgia, and the wine produced here is supposed to be spectacular. I've also been told that I'll be arriving during harvest season, so I may be able to observe (or participate!) in the wine-making.
But this evening has marked more than just the discovery of my new address. Everything's becoming so real now. Before my departure, I was never really able to wrap my head around the fact that I was moving to Georgia. I only began to feel something while on the plane last week. It hit me that I was perhaps making a mistake, getting out of my depth, and doing something that was truly crazy. I saw gates displaying flights to London and New York, and I considered bolting for those much safer international relocations. Since arriving in Georgia, though, I haven't had those feelings again, even as I've found myself reduced to near-illiteracy in a radically different geography and mystifying culture. I've had the cocoon of the hotel, of my English-speaking orientation group, and of the protective program co-ordinators to make me forget exactly how far away from my own culture, my own context, my own life I am.
That changed this evening. My new home has a name (and, if Wikipedia is to be believed, a beautiful face). I have one day of training - including one day of life-saving Georgian language lessons - left until I meet my host family and are whisked away to an even more remote and unfamiliar part of the world. Until now, I couldn't wrap my head around the idea that my presence in Georgia wasn't temporary - but I am not going home anytime soon. Everything familiar to me is packed in a hockey bag, and anything I miss will have to wait until Christmas. This week of orientation was merely dipping my toes in the water; my real endeavour is only about to begin.
Friday, 12 August 2011
The other side of the world
Kristen,
I'm here! I'm safe! I'm having a good time! I think I'm in the first stage of culture shock but that's OK because it's a good stage!
I start orientation today, including a walking tour of Tbilisi. Then five hardcore days of Georgian language, culture and pedagogy classes. I can't wait to get started! I want to learn as much Georgian as possible and become completely fluent and meet my host family and get to know my new home! CULTURE SHOCK IS THE BEST!
My first night here, I went out alone for dinner (khatchapuri and Georgian wine). I met three middle-aged Georgian men with OK English skills, who bought me an ice cream sundae and Georgian "champagne", taught me a little Georgian, and asked me all manner of personal questions. It was a fantastic introduction to the Georgian love of guests. (Have I mentioned the Georgian proverb, "An unexpected guest is a gift from God"? That was on full display.)
Bit of blog business: I've added a widget on the right-hand side that will allow you to subscribe to my blog. Enter your email address and you'll receive an email whenever I have a new post.
In conclusion, jet lag!
I'm here! I'm safe! I'm having a good time! I think I'm in the first stage of culture shock but that's OK because it's a good stage!
I start orientation today, including a walking tour of Tbilisi. Then five hardcore days of Georgian language, culture and pedagogy classes. I can't wait to get started! I want to learn as much Georgian as possible and become completely fluent and meet my host family and get to know my new home! CULTURE SHOCK IS THE BEST!
My first night here, I went out alone for dinner (khatchapuri and Georgian wine). I met three middle-aged Georgian men with OK English skills, who bought me an ice cream sundae and Georgian "champagne", taught me a little Georgian, and asked me all manner of personal questions. It was a fantastic introduction to the Georgian love of guests. (Have I mentioned the Georgian proverb, "An unexpected guest is a gift from God"? That was on full display.)
Bit of blog business: I've added a widget on the right-hand side that will allow you to subscribe to my blog. Enter your email address and you'll receive an email whenever I have a new post.
In conclusion, jet lag!
Sunday, 7 August 2011
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